GREECE
Dodecanese Islands (Kos - Nisyros - Tilos - Astypalea - Kalymnos - Kos)
Dodecanese Islands (Kos - Nisyros - Tilos - Astypalea - Kalymnos - Kos)
4-11 May 2019
Storyteller: Ivan Brigida
The skipper and ocean lover.
A fleet of four boats from Kos set off to explore the Dodecanese archipelago in Greece after the exciting sailing trip last year to Cyclades. We were lucky to took over the uncrowded marinas in a low sailing season in May with unforgettable dancing on the pier and a collective loud singing at night.
The aspirations. It was an ambitious plan to visit seven different islands in just six days of sailing. We couldn't decide what to skip, so we included the maximum number of points on the route in the radius we could possibly reach.
Most of the team arrived at the Kos marina on Saturday. Unlike many other places of Mediterranean this one provided an excellent service: check-in was done quickly and smoothly, mariners were assisting on berthing every boat that left the pier or arrived from the sea. It was important as most of the "holiday" skippers are not very confident in handling a boat when they do it once or twice a year.
Most of the team arrived at the Kos marina on Saturday. Unlike many other places of Mediterranean this one provided an excellent service: check-in was done quickly and smoothly, mariners were assisting on berthing every boat that left the pier or arrived from the sea. It was important as most of the "holiday" skippers are not very confident in handling a boat when they do it once or twice a year.
The original plan consisted of 7 islands
Personally I always take one meal in Greece and measure the price and taste "index" of it (compare the same meal in all cafes). The best part of it is a feta cheese with species that comes as one chunk.
Greek salad - a salad consisting of tomatoes, olives, and feta cheese
Sunday. The first day the weather played a bad joke with us as a near gale wind reached Kos and we couldn't leave the berth.
Gloomy morning in Kos
Luckily a tourist can easily spend a couple of days just exploring ancient ruins, taking natural hot baths, hiking, or just lounging about at the island of Kos.
We've arranged cars and started our one-day trip around the island.
We've arranged cars and started our one-day trip around the island.
The next stop in the middle of the forest. Someone who loves animals keeps this outdoor farm in good condition. Here you can pet and feed countless cats, and admire graceful peacocks.
At the end of the day we were quite hungry and stopped by at the authentic restaurant by the road.
Team dinner
Monday. First day at sea we took a short passage from Kos to Nisyros.
We wanted our team to have a recognisable style and a common spirit, so we printed the same polo shirts with the name of the boat CATAIFI on one side and the phrase SEA YOU SOON on the other side (a kind of wordplay: SEE - SEA). Every time I put on this T-shirt, I warmly recall our adventure.
We wanted our team to have a recognisable style and a common spirit, so we printed the same polo shirts with the name of the boat CATAIFI on one side and the phrase SEA YOU SOON on the other side (a kind of wordplay: SEE - SEA). Every time I put on this T-shirt, I warmly recall our adventure.
SEE YOU SOON design on the back of polo
Wine and strawberry was a prize for the first day hardships. I love sailing for simple beauties and feeling of the moment when tasting them.
Wine and strawberries
Tuesday. We started our next day early to have enough time to explore the island on cars and hike. It is one of the most famous islands in Dodecanese archipelago because of the volcano crater that still shows signs of life with steam and sulfur smell.
Team-building photo
We could spend days trying to reach the crater by walk. Luckily this small island have car rental service. The Nisyros volcano has 5 craters, the most recent violent eruption took place 700 years ago. However, some activity was noticed 12 years ago.
Long way to the crater
The landscape changed dramatically when we reached the volcano crater. There was a smell of sulfur everywhere, which can be confused with rising steam from the bowels of the crater. Ideal place for a vivid photo session.
The other side of the island uncovers the Mandraki village with the stunning views of the valley and craters of the volcano.
Mandraki village
According to the Google map, there was a picturesque "bypass" road back along the coast. However, it did not say that there would be no asphalt on it. Perhaps, they still use horses to move on it. The whole team had to leave the cars and walk in front of them, pulling out any blockages by hand.
The first cars that passed that road
We arrived back later than expected. We then needed to make a short two-hour trip to the nearby island of Tilos. We found a small marina, which we occupied almost entirely with our four boats. The whole pier was at our disposal, so we could freely arrange a night disco.
We were dancing, singing, and moving all together in a fiesta.
At some point someone dived under the catamaran to get the phone accidentally dropped out to the water. We could find it, but it was too late - even 5 min of sea salt inside is deadly dangerous for any device.
We were dancing, singing, and moving all together in a fiesta.
At some point someone dived under the catamaran to get the phone accidentally dropped out to the water. We could find it, but it was too late - even 5 min of sea salt inside is deadly dangerous for any device.
Wednesday. Early in the morning we set off to the island of Astypalaia. We had to make a long 7-hour trip before reaching the point. The town is spread out on the hills around the bay. All buildings are made in the same style and, from a distance, are merged into a single white spot. In the evening, the town is magically illuminated with yellow backlighting.
Thursday. The way back to home marina at Kos was 50 miles away, which was a long distance to cover (8-10 hours). For the last overnight before returning the boat, we chose the island of Kalimnos and the wild bay of Akti. It was a challenge to find an empty and secure spot for our catamaran.
Friday. All our boats successfully returned to the home marina. Finally it was an occasion to dress up for the final dinner.
The end. Sea you soon!
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