SUMMER OF 2020: QUARANTINE ESCAPE SAILING TRIP
Kinsale-Cork-Cobh-East Ferry Marina
July 2020
July 2020
We missed the ocean and were quite excited about our first post-quarantine sailing trip in 2020. There was a sweet smell of freedom even when the weather forecast was too windy for a relaxed summer sailing.
The planned round trip route had an overnight stop in Kinsale, Cork and East Ferry Marina, passing Charles Fort, Oysterheaven bay, Cork Harbour, Cobh, and Spike Island. The overall distance was 62 nautical miles.
The planned round trip route had an overnight stop in Kinsale, Cork and East Ferry Marina, passing Charles Fort, Oysterheaven bay, Cork Harbour, Cobh, and Spike Island. The overall distance was 62 nautical miles.
Finally, we saw Kinsale during the daylight!
It is nearly impossible to book a boat in Kinsale only for a weekend as summer is high season and all boats are taken for a longer charter period. This year we used the situation around the pandemic and closed borders for tourists and got a chance to rent a boat for a short three days sailing.
It is nearly impossible to book a boat in Kinsale only for a weekend as summer is high season and all boats are taken for a longer charter period. This year we used the situation around the pandemic and closed borders for tourists and got a chance to rent a boat for a short three days sailing.
Kinsale is a small beautiful town with many colorful houses and restaurants. It is a home to many delicious seafood places, seven of them have a Michelin star in 2020. We arrived slightly after 9pm when all kitchens were closed, so we had to order only take-away pizza instead of a famous seafood we could get. The locals were slightly surprised to find five strangers eating food at night on a marble fountain.
There is always Hope
The first morning on a boat started with drizzling rain. Everything became wet and slippery, we decided to wait until it is over. After light breakfast of porridge and instant coffee, we left the Trident marina at 9.30am to the reach the next destination Cork.
The first morning on a boat started with drizzling rain. Everything became wet and slippery, we decided to wait until it is over. After light breakfast of porridge and instant coffee, we left the Trident marina at 9.30am to the reach the next destination Cork.
The boat name "Hope" inferred that this time a trip will be less windy and rocky than usual.
Worn-out lines
The start of our trip was quite challenging. It was rainy, foggy, windy, and quite cold amidst summer. We tried to set up the main sail, but one of the reef lines was clutched, we had to pull it manually. In a few minutes one of lazy bag lines torn with a loud sound. We were approaching open seas and couldn't let the half of a main sail flap under the boom. The main sail was set down for the whole trip, we could fix it only the next day in the port.
The start of our trip was quite challenging. It was rainy, foggy, windy, and quite cold amidst summer. We tried to set up the main sail, but one of the reef lines was clutched, we had to pull it manually. In a few minutes one of lazy bag lines torn with a loud sound. We were approaching open seas and couldn't let the half of a main sail flap under the boom. The main sail was set down for the whole trip, we could fix it only the next day in the port.
29 miles from Kinsale to Cork on jib
29 miles (~5-6h passage in a normal conditions) from Kinsale to the Port of Cork Marina was not that much to cover with a gentle favourable breeze. We started fishing just after entered the Cork Bay, as we prepared so many baits and needed for some rest. We dropped an anchor near the Spike Island for a tea and easy fishing without drifting. The team fantasised about tasty dinner from the catch or in one of the restaurants of Cork. The latter was even more desired by everyone except fishermen. It was only the first week when some of the restaurants were open the lockdown period and all of us didn't go out for several months.
29 miles (~5-6h passage in a normal conditions) from Kinsale to the Port of Cork Marina was not that much to cover with a gentle favourable breeze. We started fishing just after entered the Cork Bay, as we prepared so many baits and needed for some rest. We dropped an anchor near the Spike Island for a tea and easy fishing without drifting. The team fantasised about tasty dinner from the catch or in one of the restaurants of Cork. The latter was even more desired by everyone except fishermen. It was only the first week when some of the restaurants were open the lockdown period and all of us didn't go out for several months.
Port of Cork City Marina
The second largest city in Ireland has just one pontoon for sailing boats which is combined with customs. The open gate was broken and we could get out to the city easily, so we had to call the security every time we were leaving or entering the port. There were no facilities (they were supposed to be in the hotel nearby, but it refused to help us due to COVID), but the price for night stay for just 20 EUR + 5 EUR electricity. So we couldn't complain.
It was quite unusual to stay near the historical city center, almost under the bridge with constantly flowing traffic. Usually we select remote villages and sleepy bays with a few visitor buoys, but not this time. We were hoping to stumble upon some random place, and after a long quest for food we were fortunate to get a table in a warm Italian restaurant Bocelli.
The second largest city in Ireland has just one pontoon for sailing boats which is combined with customs. The open gate was broken and we could get out to the city easily, so we had to call the security every time we were leaving or entering the port. There were no facilities (they were supposed to be in the hotel nearby, but it refused to help us due to COVID), but the price for night stay for just 20 EUR + 5 EUR electricity. So we couldn't complain.
It was quite unusual to stay near the historical city center, almost under the bridge with constantly flowing traffic. Usually we select remote villages and sleepy bays with a few visitor buoys, but not this time. We were hoping to stumble upon some random place, and after a long quest for food we were fortunate to get a table in a warm Italian restaurant Bocelli.
Morning walk
We planned to reach Youghal the next day, but it had to be an ocean passage again and twice more miles to come back almost against the wind. So we decided to change our plans and not leave the Cork harbour, but simply sail to another spot close by. The next destination was the East Ferry marina only 10 miles away from Cork. We had plenty of time in the morning after this decision, which was spent on exploration of the city center and finding something for breakfast. All places was closed on a Saturday morning, but we still enjoyed a walk, especially the famous food English Market (on the picture below).
We planned to reach Youghal the next day, but it had to be an ocean passage again and twice more miles to come back almost against the wind. So we decided to change our plans and not leave the Cork harbour, but simply sail to another spot close by. The next destination was the East Ferry marina only 10 miles away from Cork. We had plenty of time in the morning after this decision, which was spent on exploration of the city center and finding something for breakfast. All places was closed on a Saturday morning, but we still enjoyed a walk, especially the famous food English Market (on the picture below).
From Cork to Cobh
There were a lot of rowing athletes along the canal on our way back. We berthed at the pier of the Quays Bar & Restaurant at Cobh for lunch. We never stayed before in Cobh and wouldn't do it again if we hadn't seen some boat at a hidden pier the day before. Cobh was a lovely town with plenty of flowers, cafes, motley houses, and an impressive St. Colman's Cathedral (1919).
There were a lot of rowing athletes along the canal on our way back. We berthed at the pier of the Quays Bar & Restaurant at Cobh for lunch. We never stayed before in Cobh and wouldn't do it again if we hadn't seen some boat at a hidden pier the day before. Cobh was a lovely town with plenty of flowers, cafes, motley houses, and an impressive St. Colman's Cathedral (1919).
The Titanic Experience Museum
We randomly found the Titanic Experience museum in the Internet when we were passing by on our way to Cork. It is the third museum about Titanic that I know (other two are in Belfast and Southampton). Cobh was the last port of departure for Titanic before it left the continent to New York. The museum was quite small, however, the experience was worthy. One could see life aboard Titanic and learn about the amenities in a cabin for a first and third class passengers: how did they sleep, what was the menu, etc.
Did you survive on Titanic?
They gave us looking real boarding tickets for the Titanic ship dated 1912 with the details of one of the 123 passengers who came to the White Star Line Ticket Office on Thursday April 11th 1912 in Queenstown (now Cobh). At the end of the tour, we found out if the passenger survived. Luckily all three of us finished that cruise alive :)
We randomly found the Titanic Experience museum in the Internet when we were passing by on our way to Cork. It is the third museum about Titanic that I know (other two are in Belfast and Southampton). Cobh was the last port of departure for Titanic before it left the continent to New York. The museum was quite small, however, the experience was worthy. One could see life aboard Titanic and learn about the amenities in a cabin for a first and third class passengers: how did they sleep, what was the menu, etc.
Did you survive on Titanic?
They gave us looking real boarding tickets for the Titanic ship dated 1912 with the details of one of the 123 passengers who came to the White Star Line Ticket Office on Thursday April 11th 1912 in Queenstown (now Cobh). At the end of the tour, we found out if the passenger survived. Luckily all three of us finished that cruise alive :)
Aka "Michelin star" homemade onboard dinner
This time the East Ferry marina was not that calm as I used it to see: the veering southern wind against tide created uncomfortable roll of the boat. Guys spent a whole hour and had used all six lines to securely attach the vessel to the pier.
The simple dish we cooked together was delicious. Pasta Bolognese, salad, and wine is a daydream recipe for every sailor. Cooking onboard is a good teamwork activity: one becomes much closer to the team of strangers they met only few days ago.
This time the East Ferry marina was not that calm as I used it to see: the veering southern wind against tide created uncomfortable roll of the boat. Guys spent a whole hour and had used all six lines to securely attach the vessel to the pier.
The simple dish we cooked together was delicious. Pasta Bolognese, salad, and wine is a daydream recipe for every sailor. Cooking onboard is a good teamwork activity: one becomes much closer to the team of strangers they met only few days ago.
Famous neighbour: "Thunder Child 2"
Three years ago we were impressed by the first version of Thunder Child (on the first image below). She set a new UIM World speed record circumnavigation of Ireland reaching 54kts as a top speed. This year we were in East Ferry Marina we had a chance to see very close a new yellow boat "Thunder Child 2". If you are curious, check some of the videos of speed and storm trials on the owner's channel.
Three years ago we were impressed by the first version of Thunder Child (on the first image below). She set a new UIM World speed record circumnavigation of Ireland reaching 54kts as a top speed. This year we were in East Ferry Marina we had a chance to see very close a new yellow boat "Thunder Child 2". If you are curious, check some of the videos of speed and storm trials on the owner's channel.
Sailing back
The next morning in East Ferry was calm as nothing happened last night.
The next morning in East Ferry was calm as nothing happened last night.
We had to go against the wind immediately since we left East Marina on the way back to Kinsale. 28hp engine did go only 1-2 knots against the tide and wind reaching 30 knots. The weather was not that bad with some sun and small rain, but the most important was the breeze that was blowing from the land (no big waves). Following our captain suggestion so we were heavily reefed and used only 1/3 of full sails area. It was the right moment to practice the steering skills under sails, tacking and gybing, when the speed reached 9 knots on the close and beam reach courses.
18-15-1-1 formula
The final stop was in the Oysterhaven bay for lunch. We had loadful of food left, so is was all used for a new dish codenamed "18-15-1-1" (18 sausages + 15 eggs + 1 onion + 1 red pepper). A pan with it reminded me Mandelbrot fractals pictures that remains similar to the original when zoomed in.
The final stop was in the Oysterhaven bay for lunch. We had loadful of food left, so is was all used for a new dish codenamed "18-15-1-1" (18 sausages + 15 eggs + 1 onion + 1 red pepper). A pan with it reminded me Mandelbrot fractals pictures that remains similar to the original when zoomed in.
Thank you, crew!
We reached the home marina in Kinsale by 9pm, packed very fast, and headed back to Dublin. All were very happy, red from sun, and exhausted.
We reached the home marina in Kinsale by 9pm, packed very fast, and headed back to Dublin. All were very happy, red from sun, and exhausted.
Thank you for being with us and reading our story.
Ivan & Dasha
Ivan & Dasha
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