Wild Atlantic Way: 10 Days Sailing Ireland's West Coast | IRELAND, 2024

A detailed route within a custom layer on Google Maps

-1- [July 19th]
Killybegs

For five years after moving to Ireland, I had been trying to find a boat to sail along the western coast. During this time, I explored the entire southern coast and bought "South & West Coasts of Ireland Sailing Directions" and "Cruising Ireland", often browsing through the sections covering places I wanted to visit. Only now has this dream become reality. The reason is simple: these areas are wild, lacking cruise sailing infrastructure, and there's only one charter company in all of Ireland, located in the south. Getting from the south to the west and back in a few days is nearly impossible.

Finally, luck was on our side – we managed to charter a 37-foot Beneteau (a modest boat with three cabins). The previous renters were returning from Scotland to Ireland and left it in Killybegs, County Donegal. We knew we had a long journey to Kinsale ahead, but didn't realize just how long – 410 miles. For comparison, an average week of Mediterranean sailing covers 120-150 miles, and we had to cover almost a triple of that. Even with two extra days (we could return the boat on Sunday evening instead of Friday), it didn't significantly change the situation.

So, let's begin! We reached the marina in Killybegs by car and bus without any problems, had dinner at a seafood restaurant, and booked a hotel to get a good night's sleep in a comfortable room before the long cruise. Killybegs is western Ireland's fishing center – numerous beautiful and large fishing vessels are stationed here, departing for multi-day fishing trips far into the ocean.

We bought provisions intuitively, without a detailed list. Roma and Pasha had previously stopped at a wholesale food store in Dublin to buy canned meat, condensed milk, and even soups (borscht and solyanka) in glass jars. Soups are considered a luxury on a boat since they take long to cook, and gas usually flows slowly on the stove. If the boat is rocking, you try to cook minimally. Even basic instant noodles are well-received by the crew as they only need hot water.

The next preparation step was filling the diesel tank. Although the gauges showed the tank was only one-third empty, it turned out to be half empty. This could mean a whole day's difference in engine running time. We found a man with a fuel truck and refuelled during high tide so we could get close to the concrete pier.

-2 - [July 20th]
Killybegs to Broadhaven Bay (Belmullet)

We departed at 11:30 AM—an hour later than planned, after Pasha returned the rental car to the nearest airport and we finished provisioning.

The day started well, with favorable winds (beam reach) allowing for quick progress toward our destination. Along the way, we encountered playful dolphins and captured some beautiful photos. However, toward evening, the wind turned against us, and our speed halved—from 6 knots under sail to just 3 knots. It quickly became evident that the boat had a modest engine (only 29 HP, whereas similar boats sometimes have 40 HP or more).

We arrived at 1 AM in complete darkness. Fortunately, it was July—close to the longest day of the year—so the night lasted only a couple of hours.

Thankfully, there were guest mooring buoys. You can never be certain if mooring buoys will be available at a given location or how recently they've been maintained. We were relieved not to have to drop anchor in tidal waters with a strong current, which would have required setting night watches. A boat with an anchor light illuminated one of the buoys from afar, and we found two moorings still free. By the time we left in the morning, all spots were occupied; someone must have arrived late at night or early in the morning to claim the last one.

- 3- [July 21 - mid-day]
Broadhaven Bay (Belmullet) to Achill Island (Keem Bay)

The beautiful Keem Beach, located on Achill Island, amazed us with its views. We anchored on sand near the shore, in 5 meters of water. It started raining, and we flew the drone, capturing scenic footage from above. We also tried spearfishing: Roma and Alexey tested out the wetsuits and speargun. Everyone else swam to the shore and back, convincing ourselves we could handle it – even in 14-degree water in the rain.

-4- [July 21 - night stay]
Clare Island (July 21 - night stay)

We sailed for several hours with a following wind from our daytime anchorage and caught a colourful sunset on the water.
In the evening, we reached the famous Clare Island. They even have their own whiskey here, distinguished by being aged on a barge at sea.
We wanted to take the dinghy to the bar, but it was too late – the bar had closed early as it was Sunday. We had only reached our final destination around 10 PM.

-5- [July 22 - day]
Connemara Smokehouse

The advantage of sleeping on a mooring buoy is the ease of a quick start in the morning: just untie the rope, and you’re on your way. We had a long day ahead, with lunch planned at the Connemara Smokehouse, so we set off at 6 AM.

As we sailed, we passed by the rugged and wild islands of County Mayo, including Inishturk, Inishbofin, and Omey Island. Each of these islands is steeped in history, many featuring ancient monasteries with thousand-year-old roots. While they are accessible by ferry and can be explored independently, to truly absorb their history and the local rhythm of life, you’d need to dedicate a full weekend to each.

Navigating through Joyce's Pass was one of the highlights of the journey. This narrow passage is infamous for its 'trap' — a deceptively wide-looking section where it’s easy to run aground. As we approached, the weather turned nasty, with torrential rain making visibility difficult. But just as we reached the pass, the rain stopped abruptly, as if nature itself was offering us a moment of calm. We proceeded cautiously, with crew members stationed at the front and along the sides of the boat, filming and keeping a sharp watch to ensure we navigated safely.

On our way, we noticed several fish farms. It’s fascinating to think about the challenges of maintaining a fish farm in the open ocean. Being sheltered by an island likely helps, but we could only imagine how harsh the weather must get in such exposed conditions. As we sailed past, we couldn’t help but wonder what kind of fish they were farming. Could it be salmon, or perhaps another type of fish?

Our journey brought us to the Connemara Smokehouse, a family-run business that smokes salmon using traditional recipes. Pasha had arranged contact with them in advance. Unfortunately, we missed their production tour, but we were treated to a feast at their café. We sampled a variety of smoked fish, paired with white wine, right on the premises. The owner personally hosted us, explaining how they had revived old recipes and curated this unique tasting experience. We also learned how they had secured funding to support the business post-Covid, highlighting the strong local appreciation for small businesses. It felt like a celebration, especially as it was our first time stepping onto land after three days at sea.

When we reached the pier, a local fisherman generously offered us space to tie up alongside his boat, which was anchored in the only sufficiently deep spot near the pier exit. Grateful for his hospitality, we gave him a gift of dried fish and a can of "Baltika 9" beer, a taste of Russia. While dried fish isn’t widely known in these parts, the fisherman seemed delighted with the beer.

As our adventure continued, we said goodbye to Yegor, who had been sailing with us for three days. He returned home to Dublin to complete a work project, leaving us with great memories of his company during this leg of the journey.

-6- [July 22 - night stay]
Aran Islands - Inishmore

After a delicious lunch, we continued southeast to the Aran Islands. We decided to spend the night in the most sheltered bay on the main island of the archipelago – Inishmore.

We made good progress under sail with following waves and clouds around us. Everyone had gotten used to the motion, and we weren't expecting a quick arrival at our destination – it was more of a yacht delivery than a cruise. This was explained by weather conditions: we needed the right wind to maintain acceptable speed under sails rather than crawling slowly under engine power. We also realized that cyclones more often move north, making northward progress easier with more frequent following winds. For southward progress, we had to "catch windows" of suitable wind direction during passing cyclones.

Along the way, we decided to try fishing. Not everyone believed anything would come of it, but in just half an hour, we filled an entire bucket with fish (mackerel). It was a joyful and exciting fishing experience – if we found a school, the catch was abundant. We even pulled up five at once – one fish on each hook.

-7- [July 23]
Fenit Marina

We had considered stopping in Galway for a day to rest after the long passages. As Ireland’s fourth-largest city, with about 100,000 inhabitants, it offered an attractive option just three hours’ sail from our night anchorage at the Aran Islands.

However, the weather forecast was favourable for that day, with the following day promising headwinds and choppy seas. We decided to press on southward, getting closer to our final destination in southern Ireland—Kinsale.

The entire day was spent sailing along the coast, keeping a fair distance from shore. The conditions were pleasant, with following winds allowing us to maintain a steady speed of 4–4.5 knots, assisted by the engine. We enjoyed the calm passage, sunbathing and listening to music as the hours slipped by.

By evening, we arrived at Fenit Marina, where a sailing competition was underway at the local yacht club. To our delight, we were invited to their sailors' club, perched atop a hill with a stunning view of the bay. It was a great honor to hear about the club's storied history while savoring a pint of Guinness.

Fenit has a deep connection to the sea. While the marina itself is relatively new, having opened in 1997, the deep-water pier dates back to 1887. The area’s seafaring roots stretch back even further, with fishing and logging operations active since medieval times. Fenit is also believed to be the birthplace of Saint Brendan the Navigator, the renowned 6th-century monk and explorer who, according to legend, reached North America centuries before Columbus. A statue of Saint Brendan stands proudly at the harbor entrance, a fitting tribute to Fenit’s rich maritime tradition.

The next morning, we replenished our diesel supply, carrying it in canisters, and calculated the engine's fuel consumption. At cruising speed, our 29-horsepower engine uses about 1.6–1.7 liters per hour. With a full tank, we can manage approximately 80 hours of operation—a crucial detail when facing potential stretches of 15-hour days at sea between ports with refueling options.

We also welcomed a new crew member, Nikita, who joined us from Dublin, while Roma returned home in the same car.

-8- [July 24]
Valentia Island - KnightsTown Marina

From this day, our passages became slightly shorter, and we could breathe a sigh of relief that we hadn't encountered bad weather and had made good progress on our passage plan.

We rounded the Dingle Peninsula, passing the Blasket Islands, where in calm weather you can land and observe rare birds. We saw several "banks" with birds and fish but regretted not being able to stop and fish properly. We passed many picturesque cliffs and headlands – this is a very beautiful part of Ireland.

Pasha, our culinary genius, managed to treat us to hot borscht with black bread and bacon. In the open ocean, even with small waves, hot food is especially valued.
By evening, we arrived at Knights Town Marina on Valentia Island. The wind and waves had calmed, with only a slight current. Now Pasha acted as practicing captain – he parked the boat. Everything went perfectly, and we headed to the pub.

It was a fantastic hotel at the marina exit with the grand name "The Royal Hotel Valentia," combined with a bar and restaurant where live music was playing.
We settled at a massive wooden table next to a large clipper ship model. Everyone was dressed nicely, and live music with guitar and songs was playing. No one was surprised by four guys in nautical attire.

Alexey immediately associated it with the famous British clipper "Cutty Sark," known for its speed and participation in tea and wool trade. This clipper was distinguished by its narrow hull and tall masts with minimal guns and decorations.
In fact, as we later discovered from photographs, the bar had a model of a ship with multiple gun ports and masts, more resembling a warship or galleon.

-9- [July 25 - day]
Great and Little Skellig Islands

We reached the Skellig Islands – a UNESCO World Heritage site. These islands are incredibly beautiful, but landing is only possible with permission. Only a small number of licensed boats are allowed to bring tourist groups to the island. Interestingly, landing is only permitted on the larger of the two islands, but the smaller island is no less picturesque from the sea – it's home to huge numbers of birds and appears somewhat white from a distance.

For Star Wars fans or The Witcher (the famous game, book, and series) enthusiasts, these islands hold special significance, as creators drew inspiration from the real landscapes of Ireland's islands when creating their virtual worlds.

We decided to film the islands with our drone. We managed to do this, although the caretakers weren't pleased – they called us on the radio and asked us to stop filming. Fortunately, the radio was turned off most of the time, and we managed to get everything we wanted. 😊

The photos show the ancient monastic complex on Skellig Michael, located off Ireland's southwestern coast. This is an aerial view of stone buildings perched on steep slopes overlooking the endless Atlantic Ocean. Skellig Michael is known for its well-preserved monastery dating from the 6th-8th centuries.

The image clearly shows the famous beehive-shaped huts, built from stone without mortar, which served as dwellings for the monks. You can see the intricate stone walls and stairs leading up the rocky landscape, emphasizing the isolation and stark beauty of this place. The emerald green grass contrasts with the grey stones, adding drama to the landscape.

-10- [July 25 - night]
Lawrence Cove Marina

We arrived at the marina on Bear Island and managed to secure the last available spot. On the way, we passed the masts of a shipwreck that sank over 40 years ago. Nearby, there was a diving center (apparently using the wreck for training purposes) and a fishing port in Castletownbere, where vessels set out on weeks-long trips into the ocean.

The harbourmaster, Rachel, personally greeted us and guided us to our berth. Docking required careful manoeuvring, as there was only about a meter of space on either side to fit between the other boats.

The weather at sunset was perfect, so we decided to take a walk and explore the island. The first thing we noticed was a humorous sign on a house wall that read, "In 1832, nothing happened at this spot." On the island’s only road, we found a pole festooned with multiple directional signs, giving the whimsical impression that this tiny village was the center of the world—despite being accessible only by ferry, not by car.

As the saying goes, all roads lead to a pub, and soon enough, we reached the best (and only) pub on the island. There, we tried Guinness with black currant—a drink Sergey remembered from 25 years ago when he studied in Ireland. Back then, it was a popular twist. The bartenders were surprised by our unusual order but obliged. The taste was intriguing, with the currant adding a sweet, almost "girly" note to the classic stout.

-11- [July 26 - day]
Fastnet Rock

Traditionally, whenever we are in the waters of Baltimore Bay, we make a point of visiting the Fastnet Rock lighthouse, located in the Atlantic Ocean off the southern coast of Ireland. This lighthouse is one of the most iconic in Ireland and is often used as a navigational marker for crossing the Atlantic waters.

Fastnet Rock is known as the "Teardrop of Ireland" because it was the last sight of Ireland for emigrants departing in search of a better life. Perched on a solitary rock in the sea, the lighthouse symbolizes both the perils and the hope for sailors, particularly those who braved the treacherous waters in the past.

Fastnet is also a key landmark for many sailing regattas, including the famous Fastnet Race, held every two years. This race is regarded as one of the most challenging yacht competitions in the world.

-12- [July 26 - night]
Crookhaven

After leaving Fastnet, we made our way to Crookhaven Bay for an overnight stay in its sheltered waters. At the entrance to the bay, we spotted ancient watchtowers perched on a hill adorned with vibrant purple heather. On the opposite side, we noticed an intriguing structure embedded in the cliff, resembling a dam or a mine. However, with no river on the far side of the cliff, its purpose remained a mystery.

The bay was unusually crowded, with numerous sailing boats anchored on buoys and a variety of motorboats moored at the floating pontoon near the shore. Interestingly, the seasonal pontoon is managed by the local community, which collects a small fee from each moored boat to fund its upkeep. Crookhaven, being part of Baltimore Bay, is easily accessible by small boats from several nearby towns, making it a popular destination. For instance, visitors often take the opportunity to enjoy Ireland's southernmost restaurant on a relaxed Friday evening.

We also tried the local cuisine, and the crab lasagna was particularly impressive – unusual and incredibly delicious.

-13- [July 27 - day]
Crookhaven to Baltimore

First, we guided the crew through a narrow passage in Baltimore Bay at Carthy's Islands – a group of uninhabited islands where seals love to bask and ocean swells often roll in. I knew this spot well, as a seasoned sailor who once rented me a boat had shown it to me years ago. Even with that experience, entering the passage was still a challenge. We had to "surf" a wave to navigate between the rocks, making the approach thrilling and precise.

After successfully passing through, we headed deeper into the bay toward Baltimore. The channel is only partially navigable in any weather. At one point, we met a ferry in the narrowest section and passed within just a few meters of it – an exhilarating and careful maneuver. Timing is crucial here: the entire channel can be navigated by yacht, but only if the tides align. The tidal range in this area is about three meters, which means even spots that dry out at low tide become passable at mid-tide. Our yacht requires a depth of 1.5–1.8 meters, so we navigated the shallowest sections during nearly high water to ensure a safe margin.

Sandbanks present another complication. They frequently shift, making it unreliable to depend entirely on charts, even those with half-meter accuracy. This is why local knowledge and timing play such a crucial role in navigating this bay.

Baltimore itself is steeped in history, dating back to the early medieval period. Its name derives from the Irish "Baile an Tí Mhóir," meaning "Town of the Big House." The area was once dominated by the O'Driscoll clan, whose fortress stood proudly here. Their legacy continues to echo through the village and its surroundings.

Despite it being the height of the sailing season, we were lucky to find a buoy for a few hours and went ashore. Naturally, we gravitated toward a café with outdoor seating, where we indulged in cold beer and fresh seafood, paired with a pint of Guinness.

The highlight of the day was watching the sailing races. Yachts adorned with colourful spinnakers glided gracefully around the bay, completing several laps in a mesmerizing display of skill and beauty. As we wandered the village, we discovered a small gallery and struck up a conversation with its owner. Each of us was keen to take home a piece of this magical place as a souvenir.

The gallery itself was a serene escape. Even without the artwork, it was a pleasure to simply sit on a sofa by the window, overlooking the sea. From there, we could continue enjoying the races, watching the yachts at different stages of their competition against the stunning backdrop of Baltimore Bay.

-14- [July 27 - day]
Baltimore Beacon

The entrance to Baltimore Bay is graced by the striking Baltimore Beacon lighthouse. We were fortunate to capture photos of it at a particularly unique moment when a herd of cows had gathered around it to rest. The scene was wonderfully expressive and felt like it belonged on the cover of a magazine.

Baltimore Beacon, often referred to as the "Baltimore Finger," is a distinctive landmark in southwest Ireland, located in County Cork. Perched on Lot's Wife headland near the town of Baltimore, this white conical tower rises dramatically from the rocky cliffs and is an iconic feature of the local landscape.

Built in 1849, Baltimore Beacon was designed as a signal lighthouse to guide ships safely into Baltimore Harbor, especially during the night or in poor visibility. Though it doesn’t emit traditional light signals, its bright, snow-white structure stands out vividly against the surrounding rocks and the sea, making it an invaluable navigation point and visual landmark for sailors.

Our visit felt particularly special, as we had the place almost entirely to ourselves. The only company we had was a small group of cows, peacefully resting near the lighthouse. They seemed surprisingly photogenic – perhaps it was the stunning coastal scenery and the brilliant sunny weather that created such a perfect, almost surreal, atmosphere.

-15- [July 27 - day]
Lough Hyne

We arrived at a small anchorage, where the team set off in dinghies toward Lough Hyne, navigating a narrow tidal channel. Predictably, our timing wasn’t ideal — the incoming current was too strong, forcing the team to manually pull the boat along (as shown in the photo). On the return journey, we faced a similar challenge. Exiting the channel required multiple attempts as we struggled against the relentless current. To make matters worse, thick seaweed, reaching the surface in many areas, tangled in the propeller, further slowing our progress.

Lough Hyne, Ireland’s only saltwater-freshwater lake, is a natural marvel connected to the Atlantic Ocean through a narrow channel known as the "Rapids." This unique connection creates a fascinating mix of marine and freshwater conditions, supporting rare ecosystems and extraordinary biodiversity.

The lake is home to an array of rare plants and animals found nowhere else in Ireland. Among its most notable inhabitants are diverse species of algae and marine sponges. Lough Hyne is also celebrated for its unusual marine life, including sea urchins, rare corals, and other intriguing creatures. Its waters are rich with microorganisms that play a vital role in maintaining the lake’s delicate ecological balance.

One of the lake’s standout features is its vibrant marine vegetation, which has adapted to fluctuating salinity levels. Species such as Fucus algae and seagrass thrive here, making Lough Hyne a hotspot for scientific research. These exceptional conditions not only make the lake a natural wonder but also a significant focus for biologists studying its unique ecosystems.

-16- [July 27 - night]
Castletownshend

We spent the night moored at a buoy in Castletownshend. Arrived late, as the day was full of activities in Baltimore and the saltwater-freshwater lake, and left at dawn.There aren’t many photos from this stop, so I’ve attached a drone shot taken earlier in the day while we passed through the channel near Kedge Island (before reaching the saltwater-freshwater lake).

-17- [July 28 - day]
Castletownshend to Kinsale

We sailed all day to Kinsale, accompanied by a fresh breeze and radiant sunlight, capturing breathtaking footage with our drone as we passed headlands adorned with lighthouses. These locations are true gems of the Irish coast, each lighthouse standing as a sentinel of unique history and natural beauty. The drone offered us a bird’s-eye view, unveiling incredible panoramas.
The first landmark on our route was High Island at dawn, also known as Inishdasky. Renowned for its ancient monastic ruins and abundant seabird colonies, the island appeared to come alive at sunrise, bathed in the soft, warm hues of the morning light.
As we made our final approach to Kinsale, we sailed past the imposing Charles Fort, a 17th-century star-shaped stronghold constructed in 1682 to defend Kinsale from naval incursions. The fort played a significant role during the Irish War of Independence, and its immense stone walls remain a testament to its storied past. From its vantage point, Charles Fort offers commanding views of Kinsale harbor and ranks among the best-preserved fortifications in Ireland.
Arriving in Kinsale marked the completion of our ambitious 400-nautical-mile journey along Ireland's western coast. This adventure allowed us to fully immerse ourselves in the awe-inspiring majesty of the Wild Atlantic Way, experiencing its beauty and power from the sea.