Exotic sailing in Thailand
Koh Chang Archipelago, March 2020
Storyteller: Ivan & Daria
Adventures
What we had been dreaming of for the last 2 years came finally true. Thailand is a beautiful place, known for its friendly people, street food paradise, a unique culture, and a lot of interesting places to visit. With so many choices at our fingertips, we opted for Koh Chang - an archipelago of 52 islands on the Gulf of Thailand's eastern seaboard, 300 km southeast of Bangkok - as an ideal place for cruise sailing, which is still not taken over by tourist fever. Our choice was mostly influenced by the experience of friends who already went on a yacht in these waters.
Travel to Paradise Islands
Koh Chang is the largest island in the archipelago of the same name and one of the largest Thai islands in the Gulf of Thailand. In Thai, Koh Chang means Elephant island, perhaps due to the shape of the island, which resembles the head of an elephant. And although there are actually elephants on the island, we were mostly interested in boats.
Koh Chang is the largest island in the archipelago of the same name and one of the largest Thai islands in the Gulf of Thailand. In Thai, Koh Chang means Elephant island, perhaps due to the shape of the island, which resembles the head of an elephant. And although there are actually elephants on the island, we were mostly interested in boats.
Planning a Trip
We set out to visit as many beautiful beaches and anchor points as possible. We generally succeeded, although we did not visit all possible places, leaving many more to explore next time.
We set out to visit as many beautiful beaches and anchor points as possible. We generally succeeded, although we did not visit all possible places, leaving many more to explore next time.
Day 1
Getting a Boat. Going out to Sea.
Checking in at the hotel near the boat base. (the dock is located next to the hotel on the water inside the fishing village). Getting a boat quickly. Going out to sea, heading to the first anchorage of Ko Ngam, a tiny island, just a few hundred meters off the southeast of Koh Chang. Swimming and snorkelling.
Getting a Boat. Going out to Sea.
Checking in at the hotel near the boat base. (the dock is located next to the hotel on the water inside the fishing village). Getting a boat quickly. Going out to sea, heading to the first anchorage of Ko Ngam, a tiny island, just a few hundred meters off the southeast of Koh Chang. Swimming and snorkelling.
Day 2
Setting Sail for Ko Wai
We got up early in the morning, as we had not yet got used to Thailand time. The point is, the local time zone is 7 hours ahead of Dublin and 4 hours ahead of Moscow.
The screw was tangled in a fishing line. We dived for 2 hours to unravel it, and finally we had to cut it off. Eventually, we picked up a piece of burlap and some kind of rope (fishing net on the bottom?), We had to cut them both as well.
The wind got stronger, up to 20 knots. We crossed to the neighboring island of Ko Wai. It turned out that this was a favorite place for one-day snorkelling trips for tourists from Koh Chang. Along with us there were several more boats with people who also wanted to look at fancy corals and tropical fish.
Setting Sail for Ko Wai
We got up early in the morning, as we had not yet got used to Thailand time. The point is, the local time zone is 7 hours ahead of Dublin and 4 hours ahead of Moscow.
The screw was tangled in a fishing line. We dived for 2 hours to unravel it, and finally we had to cut it off. Eventually, we picked up a piece of burlap and some kind of rope (fishing net on the bottom?), We had to cut them both as well.
The wind got stronger, up to 20 knots. We crossed to the neighboring island of Ko Wai. It turned out that this was a favorite place for one-day snorkelling trips for tourists from Koh Chang. Along with us there were several more boats with people who also wanted to look at fancy corals and tropical fish.
Yoga on the uninhabited island of Ko Bai Tang
Ko Bai Tang is a small uninhabited island whose shape resembles a turtle: the head and the body are connected with a small isthmus in the form of a sand spit. We landed at 4 o'clock in the afternoon, using a kayak to reach the shore, where we did a one-hour session of yoga. It was a remote online life session with a coach from Russia - everything is possible in 21st century.
Since we were on the east coast of the island, the sun quickly set behind the green tops of the trees. Yoga was excellent in a group of like-minded fellows. At the end, we laid down in a circle, felt the energy uniting us, and relaxed after a tense session. We wanted to have time to watch the sunset on the water and therefore immediately went for an overnight stay.
Ko Bai Tang is a small uninhabited island whose shape resembles a turtle: the head and the body are connected with a small isthmus in the form of a sand spit. We landed at 4 o'clock in the afternoon, using a kayak to reach the shore, where we did a one-hour session of yoga. It was a remote online life session with a coach from Russia - everything is possible in 21st century.
Since we were on the east coast of the island, the sun quickly set behind the green tops of the trees. Yoga was excellent in a group of like-minded fellows. At the end, we laid down in a circle, felt the energy uniting us, and relaxed after a tense session. We wanted to have time to watch the sunset on the water and therefore immediately went for an overnight stay.
The overnight stay in the northern bay of Koh Mak
We quickly raised the anchor after yoga and hurried to get to the night parking before the dark. In these waters there are many dangers that are not illuminated at night - whether it be thrown gear, or a boat without lights. In addition, local maps should be taken with a grain of salt. They are still incomplete and inconsistent – not all rocks are marked on them.
We reached the dock in the dark. In the distance, only a few signs of civilization were visible - as many as two restaurants and some vacationers.
We quickly raised the anchor after yoga and hurried to get to the night parking before the dark. In these waters there are many dangers that are not illuminated at night - whether it be thrown gear, or a boat without lights. In addition, local maps should be taken with a grain of salt. They are still incomplete and inconsistent – not all rocks are marked on them.
We reached the dock in the dark. In the distance, only a few signs of civilization were visible - as many as two restaurants and some vacationers.
Day 3
Ko Kut island and waterfalls.
The unexpected failure of the engine.
According to our plan, our next destination was to be the island of Ko Kut – one of the largest and yet most remote islands of the archipelago. Along the way, one of the engines broke down - the charging light came on. The cause of the problem lay in the old fastening of the electricity generator. - the generator came off, as well as the driving belt.
We had to make an emergency stop near the artificial reef of a 6-star hotel. We contacted the charter company and informed them about the reasons for the breakdown. However, we decided not to wait for their help because they would need to spend several hours to reach us. We slowly continued sailing on one engine.
We left the catamaran at the mouth of the river, got into an inflatable boat and then moved up the river to look for a waterfall. At the entrance to the park, we met a girl who suggested that we try fresh coconut juice, and then scrape off the flesh of the coconut from the inside. The taste of it was like the taste of Bounty chocolate in childhood.
Ko Kut island and waterfalls.
The unexpected failure of the engine.
According to our plan, our next destination was to be the island of Ko Kut – one of the largest and yet most remote islands of the archipelago. Along the way, one of the engines broke down - the charging light came on. The cause of the problem lay in the old fastening of the electricity generator. - the generator came off, as well as the driving belt.
We had to make an emergency stop near the artificial reef of a 6-star hotel. We contacted the charter company and informed them about the reasons for the breakdown. However, we decided not to wait for their help because they would need to spend several hours to reach us. We slowly continued sailing on one engine.
We left the catamaran at the mouth of the river, got into an inflatable boat and then moved up the river to look for a waterfall. At the entrance to the park, we met a girl who suggested that we try fresh coconut juice, and then scrape off the flesh of the coconut from the inside. The taste of it was like the taste of Bounty chocolate in childhood.
Klong Chao waterfall
EXPECTATION VS REALITY
use the slider :)
The waterfall itself did not really impress us - it was dry. Locals say that its beautiful after long rain. It was a bad luck for us, but anyway we had a good adventure.
EXPECTATION VS REALITY
use the slider :)
The waterfall itself did not really impress us - it was dry. Locals say that its beautiful after long rain. It was a bad luck for us, but anyway we had a good adventure.
The overnight stay at a hotel with a beautiful beach.
We stayed for the night in a more secure bay, a little south of the mouth of the river. There was only one A-Na-Lay hotel. However, it had its own beach and pleasant cuisine.
We stayed for the night in a more secure bay, a little south of the mouth of the river. There was only one A-Na-Lay hotel. However, it had its own beach and pleasant cuisine.
Day 4.
The fishing village of Ao Yai
The southernmost point of our trip is the fishing village of Ao Yai. There are no hotels on the eastern side of Ko Kut, but only 2 fishing villages. Nevertheless, here you can try the most exquisite assortment of seafood. The whole village is located on the water. If you look at it from a distance, it looks like one big pier. Finding a guest entrance was not easy however.
Fish caught here is kept in nets right in the water.
The fishing village of Ao Yai
The southernmost point of our trip is the fishing village of Ao Yai. There are no hotels on the eastern side of Ko Kut, but only 2 fishing villages. Nevertheless, here you can try the most exquisite assortment of seafood. The whole village is located on the water. If you look at it from a distance, it looks like one big pier. Finding a guest entrance was not easy however.
Fish caught here is kept in nets right in the water.
Day 5
The wild beach and the haul of squid
In the morning of the next day we began to return to the north. Even with one engine, we were moving fast, because the wind almost always blew from the south.
Along the way, we found a beautiful bay that was not marked on the maps. After landing on the shore, we discovered an information plate telling us that it was a military, not allowed zone. We quickly got back aboard the boat :)
In the bay there was the only boat of fishermen. They agreed to sell us their haul of squid for cheap. We did not know how to clean squid - everything was dirty in ink. But we coped with the task. We used a brazier, which, by a lucky chance, was on the boat. It's very convenient, practical, and quite delicious to cook on it.
The wild beach and the haul of squid
In the morning of the next day we began to return to the north. Even with one engine, we were moving fast, because the wind almost always blew from the south.
Along the way, we found a beautiful bay that was not marked on the maps. After landing on the shore, we discovered an information plate telling us that it was a military, not allowed zone. We quickly got back aboard the boat :)
In the bay there was the only boat of fishermen. They agreed to sell us their haul of squid for cheap. We did not know how to clean squid - everything was dirty in ink. But we coped with the task. We used a brazier, which, by a lucky chance, was on the boat. It's very convenient, practical, and quite delicious to cook on it.
National Park Koh Rang
Then we moved southwest to the island of Koh Rang, which is the center of the eponymous national park Koh Rang. We paid 200 baht per person - each one was given a ticket giving us the right to inspect any of the 12 uninhabited islands. This is one of the best places for snorkelling. We observed a lot of corals and schools of fish. We managed to visit this park only twice, while staying for the night.
We needed to replenish the water supply, but they didn't give us - since there had been no rain for a long time, and they were forced to save water. But they sparingly allowed us to take a shower.
Then we moved southwest to the island of Koh Rang, which is the center of the eponymous national park Koh Rang. We paid 200 baht per person - each one was given a ticket giving us the right to inspect any of the 12 uninhabited islands. This is one of the best places for snorkelling. We observed a lot of corals and schools of fish. We managed to visit this park only twice, while staying for the night.
We needed to replenish the water supply, but they didn't give us - since there had been no rain for a long time, and they were forced to save water. But they sparingly allowed us to take a shower.
The fishing village of Baan Bang Bao
We went through the base of our charter company, where we restocked our water supply. But they didn't fix the engine, so we continued to move slowly on one running motor. They said optimistically: "If there are problems with the second engine, drop the anchor where you can."
By sunset time, we got to the second fishing village, which was already on the relatively populated island of Ko Chang. For the second time, we were fortunate enough to buy freshly caught fish from local fishermen, right from the boat at sea. This time they were two great barracudas whose meat is highly regarded here.
The next day, we strolled along the Bang Bao pier, where there were many souvenir and clothing stores, and just a valuable ATM, where we could withdraw some local baht money.
We went through the base of our charter company, where we restocked our water supply. But they didn't fix the engine, so we continued to move slowly on one running motor. They said optimistically: "If there are problems with the second engine, drop the anchor where you can."
By sunset time, we got to the second fishing village, which was already on the relatively populated island of Ko Chang. For the second time, we were fortunate enough to buy freshly caught fish from local fishermen, right from the boat at sea. This time they were two great barracudas whose meat is highly regarded here.
The next day, we strolled along the Bang Bao pier, where there were many souvenir and clothing stores, and just a valuable ATM, where we could withdraw some local baht money.
Day 7
The unfinished hotel on the island of Ko Kham.
The next day we went to the island of Ko Kham to take a look at an unfinished hotel. Looking at this construction, it could be assumed that the plans were grandiose. Each room was planned to have a separate pool outside and its own isolated area.
The beach was the best of all that we had ever seen - snow-white sand, a good bottom topography and its own sandy spit. We were asked to pay 200 baht per person for this pleasure, as the locals continue to maintain the territory in excellent condition, and even treat tourists for this money with a cold drink.
The unfinished hotel on the island of Ko Kham.
The next day we went to the island of Ko Kham to take a look at an unfinished hotel. Looking at this construction, it could be assumed that the plans were grandiose. Each room was planned to have a separate pool outside and its own isolated area.
The beach was the best of all that we had ever seen - snow-white sand, a good bottom topography and its own sandy spit. We were asked to pay 200 baht per person for this pleasure, as the locals continue to maintain the territory in excellent condition, and even treat tourists for this money with a cold drink.
The sunset on the island of Ko Mak and the last night
We decided to enjoy the last sunset and dawn of our trip at sea. We went again to the island of Ko Mak, to another bay on the west side. From the launched drone, we took a lot of beautiful photos and videos. It was a little sad, because all good things come to an end...
We decided to enjoy the last sunset and dawn of our trip at sea. We went again to the island of Ko Mak, to another bay on the west side. From the launched drone, we took a lot of beautiful photos and videos. It was a little sad, because all good things come to an end...
We used a grill to cook the shrimps for dinner we bought earlier.
Day 8.
Snorkelling at Ko Wai. Returning the rented boat
We got up at 5:30 in the morning to watch the sunrise at sea. Since it was cloudy, we actually did not manage to see the disk of the sun, while it was rising over the horizon of the water surface.
So we decided to return to Ko Wai for snorkelling. This time we had special cases for phones, allowing us to conduct underwater shooting.
Snorkelling at Ko Wai. Returning the rented boat
We got up at 5:30 in the morning to watch the sunrise at sea. Since it was cloudy, we actually did not manage to see the disk of the sun, while it was rising over the horizon of the water surface.
So we decided to return to Ko Wai for snorkelling. This time we had special cases for phones, allowing us to conduct underwater shooting.
The end.
Returning the boat to the base after a week of sailing. We definitely want to come back here again!
Returning the boat to the base after a week of sailing. We definitely want to come back here again!
Thank you for being with us and reading our story.
Ivan & Dasha
Ivan & Dasha
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